Tucson, what a great town for vegetarians to find a literal cornucopia of markets and restaurants! Especially if, like me, you grew up in the Midwest where lime gelatin with canned fruit cocktail and little marshmallows was considered "gourmet" and the closest we got to "foreign" food was Chun King or Chef Boy-Ar-Dee. Shortly after becoming a vegetarian (for various reasons) and moving to Tucson (for other, unrelated reasons) I discovered two of my favorite things about local dining: Indian food and the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet (usually under $5 with a coupon).If you're not familiar with either, let me clue you in to what you're missing! The best illustration, perhaps, is to tell you about the delightful meal my partner, Donna, and I enjoyed recently at Gandhi Cuisine of India, in the shopping center at Fort Lowell and Stone. Tucsonans just voted Gandhi "Best Indian Restaurant in Tucson" and, though Tucson is currently home to several wonderful Indian restaurants, I wouldn't choose to argue with that honor. The variety and flavor of the offerings were an absolute delight. Though there were a couple of Tandoori chicken dishes on the buffet, everything else was vegetarian and, believe me, there was a lot to choose from. Because it is buffet style, I suggest taking just a few items each trip (and you will want to make several trips!) You might begin with the lightly curried vegetable soup or the Vegetable Samosas (creamy smooth potatoes and peas in a light, flaky crust- wonderful!). Next trip, make a bed of hot Basmati rice and cover it with each of several delightful vegetable dishes (they change daily depending upon availability and the mood of the chef). At this visit we enjoyed a Dal Saag (lentils and spinach), Aloo Mirchi (potatoes and red peppers), Mutter Paneer (peas with cubes of homemade cheese), a delicious Curried Squash and Kadhi Pakoras (little vegetable dumplings in a creamy curry sauce). Chef Sadhu has a wonderfully subtle hand with the spices and seasonings and the flavors of the vegetables were not lost by overspicing or overcooking. A trio of Indian condiments- a spicy mint chutney, sort of a sweet-sour Tamarind sauce, and cooling yogurt Raita- are also available to further excite your taste buds.
We were also treated to a tour of the kitchen and were fascinated to watch the Garlic Naan being baked on the inside wall of the Tandoor oven. Naan is served in a basket with your buffet meal, which also includes desert: Galubjamun (like a sweet, honeyed cake) and Kheer (like an Indian rice pudding).
I also heartily suggest the Mango Lassi (a sweet shake made with mango juice, sweetened homemade yogurt and rosewater served over crushed ice), though not included in the price of the buffet lunch. It's well worth the extra money.
The lunch buffet is served 7 days a week from 11 am to 3 p.m., but if you miss it go ahead and treat yourself (you'll pay a little more but it's still worth the price) to dishes from the regular menu. My personal favorites are the Vegetarian Appetizer Sampler (a variety of pakoras and samosas- plenty for two), Navrattan (eight vegetables and paneer in curry sauce), Aloo Gobi (potatoes and cauliflower with fresh herbs and tomatoes), Bhegan Bharta (baked eggplant with herbs and spices) and Saag Paneer (creamed spinach and cheese). There are many more delights available on the menu for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.
For that special occasion, enjoy the Govinda Dinner for Two: everything from appetizer to dessert with masala chai (a sweet-spicy tea), "the best of the best vegetarian food" for $22.95. Take your time and savor every course (and there are several). Indian cuisine is among the most sensuous and tantalizing and the variety of flavors and textures make it a memorable experience to share.
Gandhi: Cuisine of India is a family affair. The manager, Mukhtiar Singh, and his two brothers practiced their craft in Beverly Hills before opening in Tucson two years ago, and most of the staff are family as well. Service is lively and bustling and they all seem to enjoy what they do, from the bus boy to the cooks and the manager. To me, that's essential and it's noticeable in the food and service, both of which are remarkable.
On this visit I was delighted to see a young family with a boy about 5 or 6 obviously enjoying himself, making several trips to the buffet, trying everything with great excitement. By the third trip he had certainly picked out his favorites and was scooping up rice and curried vegetables with relish, talking to himself about what was in each, with lot's of "yum"s and "ooh"s. That seemed to say it all for me too.
Namaste, and don't forget the sweetened fennel seeds by the door on your way out..
Gandhi Cuisine of India is open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and for dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Their address is 150 W. Fort Lowell (at Stone Avenue). Phone 292-1738.
Robert Oser is a local chef, teacher and author of "Flavors of the Southwest" and an upcoming vegetarian chili cookbook. He currently works at the Food Conspiracy Co-op.