[Editors' note: This was Robert Oser's first column for the Comic News. The Sundance Cafe & Juice Bar is now under new ownership as the Sundanse Cafe; see Food Matters 14]You know how it goes...you move away from Tucson for awhile and somehow you're drawn right back.
My partner Donna and I spent a very interesting year in Northern Arizona but it sure felt good to be back home in the "Baked Apple." And, of course, some of my first plans were to introduce Donna, a neophyte Tucsonan, to some of my favorite restaurants: La Indita, India Ovens, Maya Quetzal, 4th Avenue Garden Cafe... Wait, the Garden Cafe is closed? Oh, but this is like one of those "good news, bad news" stories. The bad news was indeed that the Garden Cafe was closed. The good news, as I was to find out, was that the Sundance Cafe and Juice Bar, the new restaurant that had taken the Garden Cafe's place at 621 N. 4th Avenue, is also owned by Victor and Esperance Nasser. Victor and Esperance are the same couple who ran the Garden Cafe (and, previously, the Casa Blanca, right by the U. of A. gates from '90 to '97). New name, same place, same owners.
Even better news was the new menu...and prices. While some had thought the Garden Cafe a little pricey, the new menu is well-rounded- featuring a nice assortment of appetizers, pita rollups and hot and cold sandwiches, fresh soups and salads, "small plates" and a few basic, tried-and-true entrees...nothing is priced over $7.95 and many choices are under $5.00. Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings also feature specials by "guest chef" Tom Cox, formerly part of the creative group at the sadly missed Tao of Natural Foods Cafe. Tom's featured entree this night was a Russian vegetable pie, and though we chose other menu options our waitperson hinted that she had tried and enjoyed it herself. As the Sundance Cafe is also a juice bar, two pages of their menu cover a cornucopia of fresh made-to-order fruit, vegetable and wheatgrass juice and smoothies ("no ice, only frozen fruit"). Victor told us that future plans call for streamlining the menu even more, allowing for a rotating assortment of specials and having more "guest chefs" (including yours truly).
The Sundance uses only fresh, whole foods. Victor calls it "modern food" and the menu lets us know that "Modern food takes time" and "Modern food is worth the wait!" Well we really didn't have to wait very long between each dish, and Donna and I sampled quite a few. Though a 700-word article (sorry, Mark, I went just a little over) doesn't allow me to do justice to each dish we tried, let me recommend especially: the Baba Ghanoush (the eggplant is roasted rather than baked and the flavor shows the difference); the Roasted Eggplant Sandwich (the tofu-miso dijonaise is very flavorful and I always love Small Planet's millet bread); the rosemary potatoes (yum) and the spinach lasagna (ask for a little extra garlic). I really wanted to try the baked polenta but they were out of it this night. Next time. The fresh juice made a wonderful appetizer. We sampled the Lunar Eclipse- carrot, apple, beet and ginger- and the Mixed Vegetable but we'll be back to enjoy other juices and smoothies as well.
Of course, I can't go without mentioning Heidi Johnson's wonderful, award-winning cakes. You simply must save room for a piece, and maybe take another home for later. Oil-free and vegan, the orange-poppy seed and chocolate cakes are simply the most decadent and sinfully rich tasting healthy desserts in Tucson. Take your "tofu-hatin'" Uncle Billy a piece, you just might make a convert.
Okay, the Garden Cafe is gone, the Sundance Cafe and Juice Bar has taken it's place, but the important thing is that Victor and Esperance are still sharing their vision of "modern" dining. A part of Victor's vision, as he expressed it to me, is to become known to the local clientele as "the healthiest, and best, restaurant in town." Victor's obvious enthusiasm and joy of good food can be contagious.
A good meal nourishes comforts, satisfies, and lingers. As we were enjoying our meal, (and I guess that's the bottom line in a restaurant review- we give it two "thumbs up" eh?), Donna, who had never been to the Garden Cafe, noted how the plants and ambiance made it seem we were dining in a comfortable garden. Could this be what they mean by comfort food?
The Sundance Cafe and Juice Bar is located at 621 N. 4th Ave. Hours are 11:00-9:00, Monday through Thursday, 11:00-10:00, Friday and Saturday and 12:00-5:00 on Sundays. Their telephone number is 620-1699.
Robert Oser is a local chef, teacher and author of "Flavors of the Southwest" and an upcoming vegetarian chili cookbook. He currently works at the Food Conspiracy Co-op.