To paraphrase a C&W tune, I was vegetarian before vegetarian was cool. Over the years I've watched meatless cuisine go from an oddity to a trend and, now that corporate America has discovered that "there's money to be made off these people", it's suddenly hip to be vegetarian. Why they're even advertising veggie burgers on television! You can find veggie burgers in any local grocers (though the taste and quality are often dubious). Now I'm not complaining that we're finally getting our due, just lamenting those profits seem to weigh more than integrity. Well, I'm glad to say, the folks at the Oasis, the new vegetarian eatery at 1523 N. Park (between Grant and Speedway), have more than earned their credentials.
Somehow they manage to uphold the whole food traditions and values developed in vegetarian communities during the sixties, while providing quick and delicious (and affordable) contemporary vegetarian dishes. Our waiter told us that "about 98% of the ingredients used are organic." Obviously, the owners of the Oasis are not into taking short cuts in quality to increase their profits, a respectable attitude all too rare in modern business. But then some of us still value the sixties slogan, "food for people, not for profits." The Oasis is a serendipitous collaboration between Jenny and Paul Schmitt (formerly of the late lamented Sprouts) and Rainbow Fluff (a.k.a. Neil), an elfin presence long held in esteem at Rainbow Gatherings and other alternative events as the inventor of Rainbow Fluff's Famous Veggie Burger. Indeed the veggie burger (rightly) takes center stage here. It's a delightful and satisfying vegetarian patty with a flavorful homemade texture, cradled on a whole grain bun with organic tomatoes, lettuce, onion and pickles. Compliment your burger with another of the Oasis' specialties, organic French fries (or, sometimes, sweet potato fries). Forget those frozen veggie burgers at the Kwicky Mart. These are the real thing. Try it, if you like with melted cheddar, Swiss or soy cheese. You'll think you've landed at the best burger joint in an enlightened alternative universe (complete with the Grateful Dead softly harmonizing in the background).
But, no one-trick pony here, Donna and I tried a wide variety of wonderful dishes and were happily impressed by them all. While it's hard to do them justice in a short article, Oasis features several wonderful salads (the carrot-sesame-ginger vinaigrette dressing is quite tasty), including a creamy dilled red potato salad. The soup selection changes daily but we enjoyed a rich kale-onion soup, covered with whole grain croutons. A couple of days before we visited Jenny had created a tasty raw-foods "taco": seasoned ground nuts cradled in a lettuce leaf and topped with tomato and spicy radish sprouts, served with a jicama spear. Rightly proud of the inspired creativity, Mr. Fluff let us sample some of the leftovers and I would heartily recommend these to my raw food friends. The organic French fries were wonderful, hot, with a real potato flavor. We both really enjoyed the sweet potato fries, Donna liked them even better than the white potatoes. Several sandwiches looked quite interesting but we'll have to save those for subsequent visits.
Several really wonderful desserts vied for our attention but we finally chose some very tasty pistachio baklava and a creamy, decadent blueberry tofu cheesecake. I consider (humbly) that I make the best tofu cheesecake around but this comes pretty darn close. The Oasis also features red-bean Capulin coffee, well reputed to be the most flavorful, least acidic coffee (Donna, the coffee enthusiast, described it as an oral orgasm). Juices, natural sodas and tea are also available.
When we visited the dining room was small but cozy and not crowded. As we knew most of the other diners it was especially comfortable, a real sense of community.Dried flowers and colorful tablecloths brightened the ambiance. Within the last few days, however, they have expanded into the space next door and are planning live music and dancing. That should make for some interesting possibilities.
Please, visit and support the Oasis. I've long believed that it's great to be a vegetarian in Tucson. Now it's gotten even better. Seasoned vegetarians will surely love the variety and integrity of the dishes at the Oasis and new vegetarians owe it to themselves to forego the corporate entries into the vegetarian entrŽe market and find out what real meatless cuisine can, and should, taste like. All in all, Donna and I give the Oasis two big thumbs up and an enthusiastic peace sign. Groovy, indeed.
The Oasis is open Tues.-Sat. 8:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. For carry outs or more information, call 884-1616.
Robert Oser is a local chef, teacher and author of "Flavors of the Southwest" and an upcoming vegetarian chili cookbook. He currently works at the Food Conspiracy Co-op.