Restaurants, it seems, don't always die when they go out of business. Sometimes they are reborn, like a phoenix from the ashes of the old. I will have now reviewed four incarnations of what is basically the same restaurant on Fourth Avenue. Though it has gone through a succession of owners and different names- Sprouts, 4th Avenue Garden Cafˇ, The Sundance Cafˇ and, now, Sundanse- each incarnation has taken, it seems, the best of what has gone before and added special little surprises and tasty tidbits of their own. This latest incarnation is my favorite yet. Though, regrettably but realistically, the new owner/manager/cook Debbie Mechigian has had to add chicken dishes to what was previously all vegetarian fare, what is offered to the vegetarian diner is simply excellent.This is the second opportunity Donna and I have had to enjoy Debbie's creations and we have been quite impressed with the quality of the ingredients and the skillful blending of flavors. Keeping the wonderful Middle Eastern dishes and lasagna from Victor, who ran the second and third incarnations, the new menu is blessed with several new and delightful additions. As an appetizer, Donna and I chose sweet potato puffs. Donna requested a juice, a Solar Eclipse (carrot, apple and lemon) and I had a smoothie, a Mango Madness (mango, banana and orange juice). Both drinks were very refreshing. I'm a sucker for anything with mango. The sweet potato puffs were little wonton skins filled with lightly seasoned sweet potato puree and fried golden brown and crispy. Served with a small dish of tamari (I thought a little Chinese five-spice seasoning would have been a nice addition to the tamari). The puffs were sweet, flavorful and quite light- I ate four of the six before I realized I had done so and felt guilty the rest of the meal for having hogged them. On our previous visit we had enjoyed a nice creamy hummus, served with a little salad and pita bread, that would easily have made a light summertime meal. Other appetizers include curry pakoras and vegetable-filled spring rolls.
Donna ordered a small dinner salad, served with Balsamic Vinnaigrette, and I chose the soup d'jour, a chunky carrot soup redolent with ginger and garlic. The salad was nice but slightly tired, livened up by the sweet-tart, chunky dressing. The carrot soup was wonderful, highly flavored but not overly gingered. It was seasoned mainly, it seemed, with lots of basil. I would normally expect more dill, but the basil was a nice change and I enjoyed it.
The last time we had been here, shortly after Debbie had begun working on the menu, Donna had enjoyed the lasagna. This time she ordered the Thai stir-fry: tender/crunchy vegetables served with a peanut/coconut sauce over brown rice. It comes with your choice of chicken, tofu or tempeh and Donna chose tofu, as I was sure she would. (We're both crazy about tofu and enjoy it often.) I thought the sauce could have used a little more heat but Donna pronounced it perfect, smooth and flavorful. The vegetables were perfectly cooked: large, fresh chunks of broccoli, sliced carrots and seasoned, browned cubes of firm tofu. I, too, opted for tofu, in the form of a marinated tofu steak sandwich. The large slab of tofu was marinated in red wine and herbs , then seared to lock in the flavor. Served on a wonderful, house-baked flat bread with tomato, red onion and lettuce, and chips and melon slices on the side, the sandwich was light and tasty, but could have done, I think, with a little sauce or mustard. I especially liked the bread, which seems to be used with several of the sandwiches.
Debbie also makes some really decadent-looking cakes and cookies and we'll have to try them some other time but, as we were expecting to enjoy popcorn at the movie following dinner, we skipped dessert this time. (We watched American Beauty- one of the best pictures either of us has enjoyed in some time-two very enthusiastic thumbs up, Gene!) Debbie also informed us that she was planning to open soon for breakfast, offering wonderful vegetarian choices and fresh pastries. As there's never been much in the way of breakfast offered along Fourth Avenue, at least for vegetarians who avoid eggs, I look forward to this prospect with quivering taste buds.
Though I'll always have fond memories of long-ago meals at Sprouts, the Garden Cafˇ and Sundance, I'd like to wish the new Sundanse, and Debbie and her staff, a long and healthy business life on the Avenue. Donna and I have found them worthy successors to the tradition established by their ancestors. Thanks, Debbie, for keeping the tradition alive for another fabulous incarnation and thanks, especially, for the new dishes, like the vegetable enchiladas and the chili-smothered baked potato. If you haven't been there since Debbie has livened things up, give it a try. We think you'll be pleased with the changes. There's even live music on Saturday nights.
Sundanse is located at 621 N. Fourth Avenue, just north of Magpies Pizza.
Robert Oser is a local chef, teacher and author of "Flavors of the Southwest" and an upcoming vegetarian chili cookbook. He currently works at the Food Conspiracy Co-op.