I'm very sorry that, generally, I don't include the Garland Restaurant on my list of places to impress visitors to the Old Pueblo. I'm sorry because it really deserves better. For more than 20 years the Garland has been providing Tusconans with some of the best traditional vegetarian fare around: always quite good, often excellent. It may be me, but despite all the wonderful things the owners and staff of the Garland do so well, I just never find that dish or that ingredient that really "knocks my socks off." Not that I'm complaining mind you. I am quite satisfied with reliably "very good." If I were to give "star" ratings to the restaurants I have enjoyed, I would certainly rank the Garland as four out of five stars. Maybe I'm just looking for that creative spark that would, in my mind, make this a truly "five star" vegetarian restaurant. So, when Donna and I were going over the choices of restaurants to focus on for this issue of the Comic News, it was Donna, new to Tucson and never having tried the Garland, who made the suggestion. I thought, why not? I was sure Donna would enjoy the experience and perhaps I would discover that elusive spark I always hope to find.
The Garland is located in a large house on Speedway by Sixth Avenue and the quiet ambiance of soft colors and art prints on the wall of the dining area made for a relaxing experience in which the flavors and textures of the dishes took center stage. It was a hot afternoon so we ate inside, though there is a lovely, walled patio where the front yard would normally be. Our server was attentive and helpful. The wait was pleasant and we enjoyed a mushroom quesadilla while waiting for the rest of our meal. The button mushrooms in the quesadilla were lightly sauteed and smoky and the salsa and guacamole complimented the melted cheddar quite well. I thought that some shiitakes or portobellos might have made a nice addition, but it was so good I felt a little ashamed to wish for more.
Donna chose a dinner salad- mostly spring mix lettuce and alfalfa sprouts with just a hint of color by way of a little grated carrot and red cabbage and a single cherry tomato. The sesame seed dressing was nice and sweet but otherwise just a little bland. Altogether the salad was better than adequate but something still seemed to be missing- some color, some interest, something besides lettuce. I had the lentil-vegetable soup and fared a little better. Nicely seasoned and thick with onion, tomatoes, cauliflower and broccoli, it was everything you could hope for in a lentil-vegetable soup, but nothing more...hmmmm.
Donna enjoyed the spinach lasagna. The marinara sauce was thick and very nicely seasoned, smothering a generous portion of lasagna noodles, spinach and mozzarella cheese. I had the spinach linguine with vegetables and a very pleasant chipotle pepper sauce. The pasta was nicely al dente and the vegetables were lightly steamed and still a little crispy, just the way I like them. (Note: I'm sure these are the same vegetables they use for the stir-fry with tofu. While they may be great with brown rice, tofu and a cheese sauce, with the pasta I would have liked them to stick with onion, broccoli, cauliflower, zucchini and mushrooms. I'm not too crazy about big chunks of carrot or red cabbage with pasta.) The chipotle sauce was nice and creamy with just a little kick from the peppers. (A little feta crumbled on top might have been nice.) Both entrees came with some really tasty home-made rolls, perhaps the best part of the meal.
Looking back, Donna and I both enjoyed the meal very much. Every dish was quite nicely done and satisfying: well prepared in the style of vegetarian cooking that was popular about 20 years ago (and my guess is that the menu and recipes have changed very little since the Garland first opened, with the exception, perhaps, of little additions like the chipotle sauce). And that is, after all, just fine. Some things. perhaps, shouldn't change. It's really nice to have a restaurant that offers good, reliable, basic vegetarian fare. There's a good reason the Garland has enjoyed a home in Tucson for so long. You can depend on it. That says a lot. While I noticed no sparks, I found that the Garland has kindled a steady flame that will continue to draw me back from time to time. Good enough for me.
The Garland Restaurant is located at 119 E. Speedway. Call them at 792-4221.
Robert Oser is a local chef, teacher and author of "Flavors of the Southwest" and an upcoming vegetarian chili cookbook. He currently works at the Food Conspiracy Co-op.